The chocolate, too, is a party. Among classic French ganaches, a thick outer chocolate shell is considered a flaw, the mark of an amateur. Bon Bon Bon turns this into a virtue, a dramatic crack of hard chocolate giving way to creamy or crunchy or spicy secrets within. These might include a “praline” made with Detroit-famous Better Made potato chips, a liquid gush of strawberry balsamic, cookie crumbles, or a “cake” that tastes like a toddler’s birthday party.
Subtlety is not a strong suit….

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